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NINFA’S MEXICAN RESTAURANTS
NINFA’S MEXICAN RESTAURANTS. Ninfa’s is a chain of Mexican restaurants founded by Ninfa Laurenzo in 1973. The restaurant is famed for introducing the United States to fajitas. Legacy Restaurants owns the original Ninfa’s on Navigation Boulevard in Houston. In 2010 there were twenty-eight Ninfa’s locations currently licensing the trademark, in addition to the original location.
In 1973 Ninfa Laurenzo opened a small restaurant in the front of the tortilla factory that she had operated with her husband, Domenic Thomas Laurenzo (Tommy), prior to his death in 1969. Unable to secure a loan from a bank, due to the factory’s debts, Laurenzo mortgaged her home and borrowed money from a friend in Mexico to start the ten-table eatery. The restaurant quickly attracted attention for its flavorful green sauce, its “Ninfarita,” and its tacos al carbón (chargrilled beef in a tortilla), introduced as “fajitas.” Patrons also appreciated the friendly service of “Mama” Ninfa. Laurenzo capitalized on Houstonians’ cravings for ethnic food in the 1970s, and her enterprise quickly expanded. In 1976 Laurenzo opened a second restaurant on Westheimer, and two more followed within the next two years. In 1980 the Ninfa’s chain had grown to a total of thirteen restaurants, including one in San Antonio and four locations in Dallas, under the leadership of Ninfa Laurenzo’s oldest son, Roland. They incorporated under Ninfa’s Tacos al Carbón, Inc., with Roland as president and Ninfa Laurenzo as chair.
Rapid expansion in the early 1980s led to a drop in quality in the new locations and increasing debt. In 1985 the overextended company joined with McFaddin Ventures, a nightclub operator, to open new chains in the hope that a partnership would diminish risk. Less than a year later, the partnership dissolved, and McFaddin sued the Laurenzos, while the Laurenzos counter-sued. The two parties settled out of court in 1988. With control of the company back in the hands of the Laurenzos, Roland Laurenzo created RioStar Corporation, a holding company, in 1989. Expanding beyond the Ninfa’s brand, RioStar opened fourteen Italian fast food restaurants (Bambolino’s Italian Drive-Thru), four Cajun restaurants, and a seafood restaurant. By 1996 the company owned thirty-eight restaurants and owed $2.8 million in debt to food and equipment suppliers. That year, RioStar declared bankruptcy. In 1998 Serranos Café and Cantina, an Austin-based company, took over RioStar and continued to operate the Ninfa’s locations. Founder Ninfa Laurenzo died in 2001. Members of the Laurenzo family remained in the food service industry in Houston and owned several El Tiempo restaurants and Laurenzo’s Prime Rib.
Legacy Restaurants bought the original Ninfa’s location on Navigation Boulevard in 2006 and focused on returning the restaurant to its roots and preserving the Ninfa’s heritage. Advertising at Ninfa’s, both in the beginning and through 2016, has revolved around the story and image of Mama Ninfa. Her rags to riches narrative is evident on every menu and public relations piece. The legacy of Ninfa’s on Mexican restaurants can be seen in every menu featuring fajitas, and the Original Ninfa’s on Navigation continues to stand as a Houston institution.
Phaedra Cook, “A Homecoming for the Laurenzo Family,” My Table magazine (http://my-table.com/sidedish/a-homecoming-for-the-laurenzo-family/), accessed August 31, 2016. Laura Elizabeth Elder, “Rapid expansion caused Ninfa’s debt woes, says restaurant official,” Houston Business Journal, November 3, 1996 (http://www.bizjournals.com/houston/stories/1996/11/04/story2.html), accessed Austin 31, 2016. Houston Chronicle, October 31, 2012. Thomas H. Kreneck, Del Pueblo: A History of Houston’s Hispanic Community (College Station: Texas A&M University Press, 2012). Randy Lankford, “Ninfa’s Restaurant,” Texas Cooking (http://www.texascooking.com/features/feb2010-ninfas-restaurant.htm), accessed August 31, 2016. Ninfa Rodriguez Laurenzo Papers, Courtesy of Special Collections, University of Houston Libraries. The Original Ninfa’s on Navigation (ninfas.com), accessed August 31, 2016. Chrystel Pit, Deal with Us: The Business of Mexican Culture in Post-World War II Houston (Ph.D. dissertation, University of Arizona, 2011).
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The following, adapted from the Chicago Manual of Style, 15th edition, is the preferred citation for this article.Handbook of Texas Online, Meredith May, "NINFA’S MEXICAN RESTAURANTS," accessed December 17, 2018, http://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/online/articles/dgn01.
Uploaded on September 13, 2016. Published by the Texas State Historical Association.